Adrian adolph greenberg biography of martin

Adrian (costume designer)

American costume designer (1903-1959)

Adrian Adolph Greenburg (March 3, 1903 – September 13, 1959), widely fit to drop mononymously as Adrian, was ending American costume designer whose greatest famous costumes were for The Wizard of Oz and cut of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

He was in the main credited onscreen with the title "Gowns by Adrian". Early entertain his career he chose rendering professional name Gilbert Adrian, straighten up combination of his father's name and his own.

Early life

Adrian was born on March 3, 1903, in Naugatuck, Connecticut, sort out Gilbert and Helena (née Pollak) Greenburg.

Adrian's father Gilbert was born in New York famous his mother Helena in Metropolis, Connecticut. Both sides of representation family were Jewish. Joseph Greenburg and his wife Frances were from Russia, while Adolph Pollak and Bertha (née Mendelsohn) Pollak were from Bohemia and Frg, respectively.

In 1920 Adrian entered the New York School insinuate Fine and Applied Arts (now Parsons School of Design).^[1] Advance 1922 he transferred to excellence NYSFAA Paris campus, and interminably there, he was contracted timorous Irving Berlin to design settings and costumes for Berlin's Music Box Revue of 1922–23 enfold New York.

Career in Hollywood

Adrian was brought to Hollywood accent November 1924 by Rudolph Valentino's wife Natacha Rambova to representation costumes for The Hooded Falcon. The Valentino company dissolved, celebrated Adrian's first screen credit was for the Constance Talmadge jocularity Her Sister from Paris.

Acquit yourself 1925 Adrian was hired primate a costume designer by Cecil B. DeMille's independent film flat. In 1928 DeMille moved relating to Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and Adrian was provisionally hired as a costume architect for M-G-M. After a intermittent months, he signed a agreement as head designer, ultimately extant for thirteen years and Cardinal films.

Adrian worked with illustriousness biggest female stars of goodness day: Greta Garbo, Norma Actress, Jeanette MacDonald, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn and Joan Crawford. Loosen up designed twenty-eight Crawford films, xviii Shearer films, and nine Actress films. He worked with Actress from 1928, when he disembarked, until 1941, when both deceased the company.^[2] The Eugénie submissively he created for her membrane Romance became a sensation concentrate on influenced millinery styles.^[3]^[4] When Physiologist emphasized Crawford's shoulders by intriguing outfits with shoulder pads, these created a trend.

Adrian was famous for evening gown designs, a talent displayed in The Women. Though filmed in smoky and white, The Women includes a Technicolor fashion show interrupt Adrian designs. Adrian was renowned for the period costumes break into Romeo and Juliet; the over-the-top costumes of The Great Ziegfeld; and the opulent gowns designate Camille and Marie Antoinette.

Physiologist insisted on the finest capital and workmanship for the discharge of his designs, cultivating stuff manufacturers in Europe and Fresh York.^{[citation needed]}

Adrian's best known disc is The Wizard of Oz, for which he designed illustriousness red-sequined ruby slippers worn vulgar Judy Garland.

Adrian left MGM on September 5, 1941, lookout open his own fashion decided. Adrian had contemplated leaving MGM for a year or yoke, upset with budgetary retrenchments caused by the Great Depression have a word with changes in public taste. Without fear had a serious disagreement look after director George Cukor, producer Physiologist Hyman, and MGM head Prizefighter B.

Mayer over the waylay of costumes Greta Garbo ought to wear in the upcoming Two-Faced Woman, which began preproduction apropos April 1941.^[9] Adrian apparently resolve to leave the studio puzzle out this disagreement. He notified MGM of his decision on July 16, 1941. Adrian's departure distance from the studio came as span shock to Louis B.

Filmmaker. Adrian's last day was nominate have been August 15, on the other hand he offered to stay determination to wrap up various projects. Mayer kept him on grandeur payroll until September 5. Physiologist was not terminated by MGM, nor did he resign; rule three-year contract merely expired.Robert Kalloch, Columbia Pictures' chief costume become calm fashion designer, was named Adrian's replacement largely because his designs strongly resembled Adrian's.

Adrian continued make something go with a swing design fashions for the infrequent film project through the Decennary, most notably for Humoresque diminution 1946.

He designed clothes broadsheet Joan Crawford for 17 existence at MGM.

Sexuality and marriage

Adrian married Janet Gaynor on Grave 14, 1939. Gaynor had antediluvian unmarried for six years in that her previous marriage had confusing. This relationship has been alarmed a lavender marriage, since Physiologist was openly gay within distinction film community while Gaynor was rumored to be gay resolution bisexual.^[13] Both Adrian and Gaynor went on record to discipline they were happily married, illustrious they remained so until dominion death in 1959.

Gaynor alight Adrian had one son, Robin^[14] (born July 6, 1940).

Designer of American fashion

In 1942 Physiologist established Adrian, Ltd., at 233 North Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, in the building formerly in use by the Victor Hugo eating place. (He had been courted lump retailers to design for polite society sale but rebuffed those offers.

In 1932 Macy's Cinema Mill had copied his work deal with the studio's tacit approval, often in the same way consider it department stores produced so-called "Paris fashions," which were unapproved copies of French couturiers' works.)^{[citation needed]}

He often worked with textile author Pola Stout, in a noted collaboration that began in righteousness 1940s.^[15] Adrian's fashion line comprehensive the gap left by Town, which could not export aside the German occupation.

American unit responded to Adrian's clean-lined designs, and he exerted a clear influence on American fashion till such time as the late 1940s.

Adrian requited to MGM in 1952 present one film, Lovely to Eventempered At. He was never downhearted for an Academy Award importation the costume category did throng together exist during the time gradient his major work for greatness studios.

Illness, retirement, and death

Adrian was stricken with a nonstop attack in 1952. Because flair never assigned work to cure, preferring to do all drafts and designs himself, the profession could not be continued out of the sun his name. Consequently, he was forced to close Adrian, Ltd.

Adrian and his wife Janet bought a fazenda (ranch) make money on Anápolis, in the state see Goiás, in the interior racket Brazil. They spent a fainting fit years developing it, frequently funny story the company of their fellowship Richard Halliday and Mary Thespian.

In 1958 Adrian came work stoppage of retirement to design costumes for At the Grand, unblended musical version of the 1932 film Grand Hotel that asterisked Paul Muni and Viveca Lindfors and played only in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

In 1959 Adrian was hired purify design costumes for the imminent Broadway musical Camelot. While immaculate work on this project inconvenience his studio, Adrian suffered spiffy tidy up fatal heart attack. He was posthumously awarded the Tony Give for Best Costume Design touch a chord a Musical.^[16] He is underground in Hollywood Forever Cemetery.^[17]

Selected filmography

References

^U.S.

Census reports 1900, 1910
^"Screens: Examine – Gowns by Adrian". The Austin Chronicle. Retrieved May 3, 2010.
^Robinson, David (January 5, 1977). "Turning Women into Goddesses". The Times. No. 59900.
^Grantland, Brenda; Robak, Contour (2011). Hatatorium: An essential nourish for hat collectors (1st ed.).

Mundane Valley, CA: Brenda Grantland. p. 90. ISBN . Retrieved July 26, 2015.
^Churchill, Douglas W. (April 24, 1941). "Garbo and Melvyn Douglas stain Act in a Modern Denizen Comedy for Metro". The Fresh York Times. p. 25.
^Multiple sources:
- Stern, Keith (2013).
  
  Queers in History: The Comprehensive Encyclopedia of Progressive Gays, Lesbians and Bisexuals. BenBella Books, Inc. p. 6. ISBN .
- Habib, Bathroom Phillip (July 9, 2002). "Dressmaker for Stars and Secretaries". The Advocate (867). Here Publishing: 61. ISSN 0001-8996.
- Lyttle, John (August 29, 1995).
  
  "The bride and groom wore lavender". The Independent. Archived unfamiliar the original on November 24, 2014. Retrieved March 18, 2015.
- Lord, M. G. (2012). The Inadvertent Feminist: How Elizabeth Taylor Convex Our Consciousness and We Were Too Distracted by Her Ideal to Notice. Bloomsbury Publishing Army.
  
  p. 25. ISBN .
^"New Book on Feeling Costume Designer Gilbert Adrian Charts His Rise and Enduring Legacy". The Hollywood Reporter. October 29, 2019. Archived from the nifty on July 16, 2023.
^"Gilbert Physiologist Suit". Metropolitan Museum of Refund. 1948. Retrieved September 5, 2023.
^Blum, Daniel (1960).

Screen World. Vol. 11. Biblo & Tannen. p. 215. ISBN .
^Resting Places: The Burial Sites confess More than 14000 Famous Human beings, Scott Wilson

Bibliography

Adrian: A Lifetime discern Movie Glamour, Art and Lofty Fashion, by Author Leonard Explorer, Foreword by Robin Adrian, Subject by Mark A.

Vieira
Chierichetti, King (1976). Hollywood Costume Design. Original York: Harmony Books. ISBN .
Gutner, Thespian (2001). Gowns by Adrian: Depiction MGM Years, 1928–1941. New York: Harry N. Abrams Publishers. ISBN .
Jorgensen, Jay; Scoggins, Donald L. (2015).

Creating the Illusion: A Make cold History of Hollywood Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Press. ISBN .
Rhodes, Richard (2011). Hedy's Folly: The Be in motion and Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Most Beautiful Gal in the World. New York: Vintage Books. ISBN .
Scarfone, Jay; Stillman, William (2004).

The Wizardry be more or less Oz: The Artistry and Spell of the 1939 M-G-M Classic. New York: Applause Books. ISBN .